Welcome to DobsonTNR

A small, private Trap, Neuter, Release feral cats initiative

I am an individual caring for some members of a feral cat colony. I Trap/Neuter/Release and feed the animals who come into my yard. Sometimes, one of the "trapees" doesn't want to be released. Sometimes a mama has a litter on my property, but the mama doesn't return. I rescue these kittens, hand raise, and socialize them until they're ready for adoption. Sometimes there's an adult in the trap who isn't too feral, who I can socialize to become someone's pet.

I foster and socialize these rescues in my own home. They are not caged. They are in regular rooms of my home. I provide them with age appropriate vet care. Each one is handled daily. There are no children here, nor do I have children as regular visitors. To determine how any of these rescued kitties acts with children, you will bring your children when you visit. Be sure to read the How to Adopt section of this (or my Petfinder) page.

Note: any links below will open in a separate browser window (or tab page)

My adoptable rescues are listed on Petfinder (this one is always current)

This page and my Petfinder main page both describe how to adopt one of these animals.

How to Adopt - No Adoption Fee

To view Application (pdf file)

To view Adoption Agreement (pdf file)

Generally, we'll schedule an appointment for you and your household members to come to meet the cat(s) you're interested in. If you've completed the Info Sheet before you come, it'll save a bit of time. The visit is to see how the animal interacts with you and how you like the cat. We'll discuss how you intend to care for the cat. We'll discuss how to introduce the cat to your house and your routine. We'll discuss the cat's personality, preferences, and temperament.

Know that a kitten will become a cat. Remember, a cat can live for 15 years or more -- having a pet is not a temporary commitment. If you believe you'll have to 'get rid of' or 're-home' this cat when you move, when you have a baby, when your in-laws or SO move in (or out), then none of these animals are for you. If you think the cat will be "happier" as an outdoor cat, or if you think you'll declaw the cat because you didn't show her where she should scratch, none of these animals are for you. If however, you plan to provide a loving, caring, lifetime home to this animal, then I'd love to hear from you.

If all goes well, we'll complete the Adoption Agreement. You'll show me receipts for the necessary supplies, and I may visit your house to review your setup. I want to feel secure that the animal is going to a good loving home. Once this is accomplished, we'll execute the Adoption Agreement and then I will give you the cat.

There is NO ADOPTION FEE but I must feel comfortable that the cat is going to a loving, caring home. If the kitten is too young to be altered, there will be a $100 (female), $75 (male) refundable "neuter deposit". Once the kitten is old enough to be altered and have his Rabies and distemper shots, you will provide me with proof (certificate of neuter or similar), when I visit your home again to refund the alter deposit.

The animal will come with age appropriate vet records, i.e., Certificate of Neuter and Certificate of Rabies, or kitten vaccination records. I will provide a couple days worth of the animal's current food, so you can gradually introduce him to the food you've decided to feed. They're all on grain free food (no wheat, corn, rice...).

Some supplies you'll need for your new cat or kitten:
  1. Litter box, scoop, and litter -- I suggest Arm & Hammer brand clumping sand -- maybe the flushable kind would work well for you. If you're adopting a kitten, maybe the Shweat Scoop would be better. The metal scoop w/rubber handle is good & sturdy. You'll scoop at minimum once a day, twice would be better if you can do that. Be sure to get a long enough pan for his body -- some of the pans are just too short. If possible, consider 2 pans -- the general "rule" is one pan for each cat, plus one.

  2. Food - canned and/or dry, depending on the cat. Quality grain-free canned (Wellness, Instinct, Weruva) is better for him nutritionally. I'll provide you with a couple cans and a small container of dry, so you can gradually move him over to whichever food you've chosen.

  3. Bowls (or use your dinnerware until you get cat bowls) -- food & water + 1 for "special" food if you're going to do that -- fresh water always available.

  4. Toys -- maybe a fishing rod toy for interactive play, but he'll probably play with you with string or a laser light, too; free things like milk jug twist offs and wadded up paper balls are often toys to him, too. Just be sure he doesn't actually consume them.

  5. Carrier -- to take to/from vet and from my house to yours. He might also use this as his bed if you put a towel or cushion in it (it's very 'den like'). Be sure to prop the door open and put it in a cozy spot if you want him to do this.

  6. His own soft foam bed, but know that he'll probably choose the sofa, a nice comfy chair, or your bed

  7. Scratching post -- most cats prefer the upright kind, sisal covered instead of carpet. Taller is better (as long as it has a large sturdy base)

Contact me with comments, questions, or to schedule an appointment.

Some of our adoptions from 2008 and prior: More at Happy Tails on my Petfinder site.

Privacy on this site.
If you provide personal information (name, email) while on this site, you can rest assured that information will never be shared with any other site (spam is one of my pet peeves, and I'm certainly not going to contribute to the problem). This site collects your IP address for statistical and abuse tracking purposes only. Your current IP address is